Parts of a Kimono Explained

A kimono has over 20 named parts — each with specific terminology, function, and cultural significance. Understanding the anatomy of a kimono helps when buying, wearing, and appreciating this complex garment.

The Main Parts of a Kimono

• Doura (胴裏) — the lining of the upper body; in formal kimono, this is white silk
• Eri (衿) — the collar; the visible collar is called han-eri (half-collar)
• Furi (振り) — the hanging part of the sleeve below the opening
• Maemigoro (前身頃) — the front body panel
• Miyatsuguchi (身八つ口) — the opening below the sleeve on women’s kimono
• Okumi (衽) — the front inside panel that creates the wrap
• Sode (袖) — the sleeve
• Sodeguchi (袖口) — the sleeve opening (the cuff)
• Sodetsuke (袖付) — where the sleeve is attached to the body
• Susomawashi (裾回し) — the lower lining, often in a decorative contrasting color
• Tomoeri (共衿) — an extra collar sewn onto the main collar to protect it
• Ushiromigoro (後身頃) — the back body panel

Kimono Construction: The T-Shape

A kimono is cut from a single long bolt of cloth (tanmono) approximately 36 cm wide and 12–13 meters long. The entire bolt is used with minimal waste — the T-shape of the kimono’s construction is essentially dictated by the bolt’s width. The front body panels, back panel, sleeves, and collar all come from this single strip of fabric, which is why alterations to kimono involve adjustment to the folds and seam allowances rather than cutting away fabric.

This construction method means that kimono can be taken apart completely — the panels are loosely sewn together rather than permanently seamed — washed flat, and resewn. Traditional kimono washing (arai hari) involves unstitching the kimono, washing the panels separately, stretching them on boards to dry flat, and resewing. This is time-consuming but preserves silk fabric far better than any other washing method.

The Obi: The Most Important Accessory

The obi (帯) is the wide sash that closes and shapes the kimono. Its type, material, and knotting style have as much impact on the overall formality of the outfit as the kimono itself. The main obi types are:

• Fukuro obi (袋帯) — the most formal; approximately 4.4 meters long, 30 cm wide, worn at weddings, Coming of Age ceremonies, and formal events
• Nagoya obi (名古屋帯) — semi-formal; pre-folded at one end for easier tying, approximately 3.6 meters long
• Hanhaba obi (半幅帯) — casual; half the width of a fukuro, worn with yukata and casual kimono

The most common obi knot is the taiko musubi (太鼓結び, “drum knot”) — a flat, square shape at the back of the obi, considered appropriate for a wide range of formal and semi-formal occasions. Other knots include the fukuro-daiko for formal fukuro obi and multiple decorative styles for hanhaba obi with yukata.

Kimono Lengths and Adjustments

A full-length kimono is worn with an adjustment fold called ohashori (お端折り) — a horizontal fold at the waist that takes up excess length and creates a neat tuck visible at the front. The kimono is intended to be slightly longer than the wearer, and the ohashori adjusts for the difference. The ohashori also helps achieve the characteristic smooth, straight line of the kimono from the waist down.

Multiple underbelts are required to hold the layers in place before the obi is tied. The koshihimo (腰紐) are narrow fabric ties that secure the initial folds. The datejime (伊達締め) is a wider, firmer belt that smooths the upper body before the obi goes on. Depending on the formality of the kimono, a momi-eri (soft collar), collar clips, and additional ties may also be used.